Protecting your landscape, flower beds and nurseries from weeds is not an easy task, but if you approach it with a strategic plan, you will win. To develop a plan, you must first understand how weeds work and what types of weeds you are dealing with.
In fact, weeds grow from seeds or spread from roots. As the roots grow from the mother plant, new plants germinate from the lateral roots, creating more maternal plants, and this process continues, and weeds develop. Weeds, which tend to spread from the roots, are usually harder to control.
Facts about weed control? Weeds are plants and they act as desirable plants in your garden. To survive, they need water, sun and food. Of these three basic survival needs, a gardener can easily get rid of sunlight. Good mulching can eliminate sunlight.
But first let’s see what we need to do before mulching, and then discuss the best mulching techniques. To make your weed control efforts truly effective, make sure your gardens are as free of weeds as possible before planting or mulching. There are several ways to do this, both organically and with chemicals. I don’t like chemicals, but I use them to fight weeds and, if necessary, to control pests.
First, I’m going to talk about biological control. The first thing to do is remove all unwanted vegetation from your planting site. Use a hoe, shovel or other earthmoving tool to cut off the roots and get rid of unwanted plants, roots and everything else. Then process the soil by flipping or turning the soil by hand.
After plowing, let the soil stand for about four days, then work again. Keep doing it over and over again while time allows. There are two objectives for this process. It brings the roots left in the soil closer to the surface so that they can be dried in the sun, making them unviable, and also destroys the weed seeds that have begun to germinate, which also makes them unviable.
Facts about weed control? Depending on the time of year, several billion weed seeds float in the air at any given time, so it’s a mistake to think that you can get rid of weed seeds. effective for the remaining roots, which are the hardest to control.
Now that this process has been completed, start planting your garden. When you’re done planting, you can mulch the bed or continue to turn the soil weekly so that there are no weeds. Most people prefer to mulch. Mulch not only helps fight weeds, but if you choose a natural mulch, it also adds organic matter to the soil, providing better gardening results on the go.
For mulching, you can spread a newspaper (7-9 layers thick) on the ground and put mulch on it. The newspaper will prevent sunlight from entering the soil surface and help to minimize the growth of weeds. The newspaper will eventually disintegrate and will not change forever the look of your garden. Paper bags for products are also suitable, so the next time you ask, “Paper or plastic?”
What about black plastic or a barrier from weeds sold in garden centers? I don’t like it either, and I’ll tell you why. First, none of them will ever disappear, and the look of your garden will change forever until you remove them physically, which is a real headache.
Facts about weed control? Plastic is bad for the soil because the soil has to breathe. Plastic blocks the transmission of water and oxygen, and eventually your soil will suffer, just like your garden. You can use plastic in the garden if you remove it at the end of the season and give the soil the ability to breathe.
Weed-resistant tissue allows the soil to breathe, but what happens when you mulch the fabric is that you have to do it because the fabric is ugly, the mulch breaks down and turns into the top layer of soil. Weeds love the top layer of soil and will grow like crazy.
The weed fabric is also porous enough that if the area is exposed to sunlight, it will get enough light, and weeds will grow under the fabric and break through the fabric. I don’t like this. I removed miles of landscapes for other people because it didn’t work as expected.
Facts about weed control? Tackling weeds with chemicals is pretty simple and very effective if done correctly. I know that many people disapprove of chemical weed killers, but millions of people use them, so I might as well tell you how to use them to the fullest.
There are two types of chemical weed killers: post-time and pre-life. Basically, post-life herbicide kills actively growing weeds. Pre-experiments prevent the germination of weed seeds. Post-life herbicides include selective and non-selective herbicides. Selective herbicide is similar to herbicides in fertilizers for weeds and feed. Herbicide will kill broadleaf weeds on your lawn, but won’t hurt the grass.
One of the most popular non-selective herbicides – Round-up®, it kills almost any plant that concerns. Rule number one. Read the labels and take precautions !!! Round-up® is very effective when used correctly, but first you need to understand how it works.
Round-up® should be sprayed on the foliage of the plant, where it is absorbed, and then move to the root system, where it will then die. The process of moving takes about 72 hours, so you definitely don’t want to disturb the plant for 72 hours after watering.
After 72 hours you can dig, grind, process and do whatever you want, as the herbicide has spread throughout the plant. The manufacturer states that Round-up® has no residual effects, which means you can safely plant plants in places where Round-up was used®. However, I would not use it in the garden without additional research.
The lack of residual effect also means that round-up® has no effect on cannabis seeds, so spraying the soil is completely useless.