Manage Your Weeds The Professional Way

A thick lawn is your best defense.

Weeds are opportunists. They will find bare places or places where your grass is weak, and will use it to their advantage.

Perennial weeds (weeds that grow from their roots every year) can spread and give lawns an unsightly appearance. Annual weeds (weeds that die off at the end of the season and are re-sown next year) can leave bare areas vulnerable to runoff.

Whatever weeds you have, the first line of defense is preventive measures. Before resorting to herbicides, try these options to understand the root of the problem.

Preventive practices

Mow high. Do not cut the grass shorter than recommended for the species you grow. Haircut up to three inches or more will help shade weeds and create a thicker and more competitive lawn. Check out other sections of this site to make sure you’re using the right type of weed, fertilize and water, and generally do your best to promote healthy weeds.

Reduce the seal. Pay special attention to frequently used areas and areas near the sidewalk. Weeds can gain a foothold in these areas and spread to the rest of the lawn when it weakens.

Restore the bare areas by raking the seeds in early spring so that the new grass can compete with the weeds that are sure to appear. However, this can be difficult. Traditional grass-based products cannot be used in sowing, as they will prevent the germination of grass seeds, like crab grass seeds.

However, there are a number of products and strategies to avoid this situation and preserve the shoots of spring crab grass.

If the lawn is rare, thoroughly fertilize it with high-quality fertilizers to improve the density.

Let the weeds be your guide. If the site is dominated by weeds, there is probably something wrong with the growing conditions or your lawn working methods. Dense thickets of spores tentacles – a good sign of soil compaction. Don’t just rip out the weeds. Ease the seal. Violets (Viola spp.)

If you use herbicides …

o Use the right product at the right time. Follow the instructions on the label and try to identify treated areas with weeds only by using proper weed control. The best and most economical way is to use a pump sprayer. Usually you mix a very small amount with water and spray. It saves a lot of time.

o Use only granular means to fight weeds on lawns with lots of weeds. Some foods are better than others from certain types of weeds. It is very important to choose the time and allow the weeds to absorb the weed control tool. This usually occurs when the grass is wet or wet, so the grains stick to the weeds. It is best from 24 to 48 hours without rain.

o To avoid the loss and demolition of pesticides into the air, do not spray at high temperatures or strong winds.

o To avoid contaminated runoff, do not use pesticides when heavy rains are forecast or when the soil is already saturated or frozen. You will also get the best result.

o Forsunki should be rinsed three times with a spray tank to avoid residue when using a sprayer for other materials.

Types of weed control products include:

Pre-travel herbicides:

o Most common in cereal herbs.

o Introduced into the soil until weeds appear.

o Have low solubility and bind to organic substances.

Post-travel herbicides:

o Most common for perennial broadleaf weeds.

o It is used after the appearance and active growth of weeds.

o Avoid application before watering or raining.

o Kill or injure the plants they come into contact with.

o Used to destroy vegetation before re-planting.

Annual herbs.

Crabgrass is one of the most common problems associated with weeds. It’s a hot year. They feel good when the temperature is high and the herbs are the least competitive in the cooler seasons. However, it is difficult for them to get on a healthy lawn.

One of the places where it is easier for them to gain a foothold is along the cobbled areas, where high temperatures can damage the grasses in the cooler seasons – for example, along the driveways, sidewalks and patio. The soil temperature in these places is usually higher, and the crab sprouts earlier. It is also more difficult to make a granular product if you distribute your product with a spreader.

Where there are unfavorable conditions for lawn grasses, you can find treatment of cereals with the help of pre-life herbicides. These herbicides act on seeds during their germination. Since they are ineffective for unproconverted seeds or entrenched plants, time is crucial.

Using a watering strategy only to the edges of the carriageway or pavement about 1 meter wide will keep the grass pressure at a very low level. The advantage is great, it doesn’t require much cost, and you only handle a small area around the edges where the pressure of scraping the grass is highest.

The optimal time for pre-processing cereals is around the time of siphia flowering, when the soil temperature is between 59 F and 65 F.

As mentioned earlier, pre-life herbicides do not distinguish between weed seeds and herb seeds. This way, you won’t be able to transplant the grass where you put it for 2-6 months. There are two products that you can use to sow seeds in spring and to fight crab herbs. They’re used by professionals, and so are you.

The first product is called Siduron. Usually the easiest way to bring pellets to the sown area during sowing. This will not prevent the germ from sprouting new seeds while controlling the crab grass. Siduron is a bit pricey, but there are not many alternatives.

The second product is Drive DF. This is a dry liquid product that needs to be mixed with water and sprayed before sowing. It works great in small planting areas because you can spray it wherever you want to sow. You only use about 1/3 ounce per gallon of water. Best part: it’s also a post-throw crab spray. You can use it to spray existing crab plants if they appear elsewhere on your lawn. It also controls some broad-leaved weeds, such as clover.

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